Chevy 366 problems

Did they put a short deck distributor in a tall deck motor?

Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how! Previous Bottom Next. Send Private Topic View Profile. Email Report. It never stabilized and quickly died. It didnt.

Chevy 366 problems

Log in. Sign up. Home Forums Tech Help Engine. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions. Don't waste a penny on the The issue with most all of the early BB's is lack of cubic inches with the having the largest issue. You would be much better off building a or in terms of power and budget. If you have the money, then I'd follow Vinnie's advice. Other option would be a with a very mild cam and a mini roots type.

Could also be that it slipped a cog on the timing chain. The bus stayed with the school until I graduated sitting behind the garage for parts. JavaScript is disabled.

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Chevy 366 problems

By hagan November 1, in General Chat. The bus has lots less miles and i think i will be better off installing it and was wondering if i will have as much power. My father-in-law used to haul rock and ag lime with Chevys running the and they were tough motors. I don't remember driving one myself, but he got along well with them, hauling and spreading on hills in NW Mo.

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The small bore creates a little space to initiate valve openings. Add comment. MOChad Posted April 5, They are always looking for that "super deal", piecing stuff together that will not do the job and will not last in service. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. Does the accelerator pump squirt fuel? Your ideas are much appreciated. No paper gasket under an AFB ever, only the thicker insulator ones, if I remember correctly. Distribute shaft was too short to catch much on the hex shaft and stripped and burned her out. My drive home was a bit rough, but I just chalked that up to me. Whether it is your first time or not rebuilding an engine, disassembling and building an old engine block would take tremendous effort and time to make it work. One of the downsides to the truck besides being underpowered and not enough brakes is that there is not enough room to carry much for chemicals, there is room on the side to carry some jugs or bags of AMS but you can't carry a mini bulk on it. How many miles? Tried to start it, and it acted like the starter was locked up. If I changed plugs and wires it would be ok for a very short time and then go back to doing the same thing wires would even get brittle Finally I changed the coil again coil was in the top of the cap and the problem went away for good and never had another minutes problem with that unit.

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Does anybody have any ideas of what to look for or what to check? Yes you may lose a bit on cruise and mileage but the gains are worth it at least I found it to be so. We've got a mid 70s C with a engine in our sprayer tender truck that we can't get to run right. These cases would have a smooth running at first and would barely show signs of starting. But in going through this, I think I have a lot of vacuum leaks and maybe an exhaust leak. One of the downsides to the truck besides being underpowered and not enough brakes is that there is not enough room to carry much for chemicals, there is room on the side to carry some jugs or bags of AMS but you can't carry a mini bulk on it. You are using an out of date browser. Scott Danforth 89 Replies. They seem to get burnt up from the heat. Just cranking, no turning over. Someone set me straight. We've check for spark at each spark plug and that's okay. Your a little shy on 4,6 and 8 you want 20 psi difference only between cylinders but it should run ok where it is. We're trying to set up a truck just like yours with a few tanks and a pump It will more than likely need rebuilt.

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