Shear lashing mark 1

Whipping the end of a rope Purpose: Whip the ends of ropes to prevent fraying and prolongs the life of the rope.

Each of these four lashings can be used to join two spars together to make an extension. With each there are no frapping turns. The manner in which these lashings need to be applied results in the spars being in a position where they are already tightly touching. Taking frapping turns between the parallel spars would only weaken the connection. The objective is to combine the spars together to make a longer length that is as rigid as possible. So, connecting two spars in this fashion definitely requires a good overlap between them.

Shear lashing mark 1

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Make one lashing at each end of the overlapping spars.

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What are sheer legs? Simply put: sheer legs are two upright spars lashed together at the tips with the butt ends splayed apart to support some kind of weight. Most always, in Scout Pioneering we use sheer legs to form an A-Frame. Most modern references to the lashing spell it s-h-e- a -r. Yet, the much respected and revered John Thurman was emphatic that the correct spelling was s-h-e- e -r!

Shear lashing mark 1

The lashing joins two parallel poles at the tips, with the butt ends splayed apart, normally to support some kind of weight. Most always, in Scout Pioneering we use sheer legs to form an A-Frame. Most frequently, the lashing is formed by staring with a clove hitch around one pole, applying six to eight wraps around both poles, two fraps between the poles, and finishing with a clove hitch around one pole. When the wraps are taken around both poles, the lashing is referred to a Shear Lashing with Plain Turns, which is the quickest and easiest method.

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Wrap both poles with a simple lashing. Both ends of these lashing ropes should be properly whipped. When a quick job is desired with light spars, a simple strop lashing will often suffice. Unlike square lashings, the shear lashing requires eight or ten wraps around the spars before making the frapping turns between the spars to pull the wraps tight see figure Ambiguity in Tying the Lashing. If the ropes are of very unequal thickness, or placed under a lot of tension, use a Double Sheetbend. Tying it: The two poles are laid side-by-side and an initial Clove Hitch is tied round one pole. Next, three wraps are made in each direction across the X figures 2 thru 5. Round Lashing. Peschke as presented in the printing of the edition of the Pioneering Merit Badge Pamphlet: We could imagine the first lashing made by man was wrapping a few strips of bark around a stone to hold it to a tree branch to make an ax to hunt and build with. The Lashing is completed with another Clove Hitch. When extending the length of two heavier spars or when constructing a very long pole, the West Country Shear Lashing is an excellent choice.

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Another view is to place a small block of wood between the spars to yield adequate room for the frapping turns. Usually two frapping turns are made on a lashing. Most modern references to the lashing spell it s-h-e- a -r. The lower the spar, the larger the diameter. The other ends of the poles are then separated to make a pair of Shear Legs. The clove hitch that starts the lashing is easy enough to make, but tying a clove hitch at the end of the lashing is a different matter. Also do not twist the short end around the standing part of the rope as in the traditional square lashing. Hold the crossing spar up to the vertical spar and make three wraps around the spars using the long end see 3, 4, and 5. Wrap the rope or cord around the spars a few times and finish with a Square Knot. Sign me up.